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But I preferred the house-special casserole, which included a bit of everything (chicken, fish, beef balls) in a more subtle broth. The Song Sao soup, a golden broth filled with minced white fish that basks in the dual notes of earthy dried mushroom and sparkling ginger. And the are my winners, including an appetizer rendition with a simple ginger-scallion and chile sauce that lets them shine.

They are best served, though, as a hearty anchor, and the prize is noted under the chef recommendations as "sauteed spicy chicken and noodle." A Mongolian dish also known as (or "big plate chicken"), it arrives on a saucy, heaping platter worthy of its name.

WEEKEND NOISESo mellow at 80 decibels I could hear the crispy rice sizzle.

(Ideal is 75 decibels or less.) IF YOU GO Entire menu Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until p.m.

, the wide, chewy, straplike noodles that tangle with rustic chunks of chicken in a red gravy rife with fistfuls of red chiles and potatoes. No, that spray of kebab sticks, threaded with jewels of tender lamb, radiates a toasty perfume of cumin, evoking the Muslim influence that found its way to Xi'an in western China along the Silk Road from points west. The so-called "pita" bread here (a Middle Eastern influence?

Well, you know from the minute a plate of barbecued lamb skewers hits the table at Xi'an Sizzling Woks in Chinatown that this isn't your dad's old Cantonese chow mein joint. Or even your cool-kid friend's latest Sichuan obsession.

Try the unusual Xi'an pancakes - crepes rolled around perfectly seasoned potato shreds, with a sour soy dip.Sizzling Woks' owner Xinping Wang had even named his restaurant Xi'an Famous Foods - until he heard from the New York restaurant's lawyer.Devotees of the New York restaurant at my table nitpicked that Wang's handmade "skin noodles," hand-pulled into delicate, white ribbons from wheat starch, were not quite as al dente as those at the original.Chinatown continues to evolve and diversify with the addition of this destination for the suddenly hot Silk Road flavors of Xi'an in western China.From spicy-sour, handmade noodles to cuminy lamb skewers, pita-scattered lamb soup, brimming hot pots, and muffinlike meat pockets, a whole repertoire of novel-to-Philly flavors perfume the air of this modest Arch Street nook.

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